KOCHI
PLACES TO VISIT
Cochin or Kochi, is one of the finest
natural harbours on the Arabian Sea coast of India. Cochin- renamed.
Kochi has been a port of call for foreign traders from very early
times. Its cosmopolitan character is reflected in the many buildings
and structures representing different regions of the world. A city
of peninsulas and islands, today it is the commercial hub of Kerala.
Fort Kochi
A leisurely walk through the city is the best way to discover
historic Fort Kochi. An obscure fishing village that became the
first European township in India, Kochi has an eventful and colorful
history. Its reputation as a seafaring commercial town was such
that Nicolas Conti, an Italian traveler of the Middle Ages remarked:
If China is where you make your money, then Kochi surely is the
place to spend it. The town was shaped by the Portuguese, the Dutch
and later the British. The result of these cultural influences are
seen in the many examples of Indo European architecture that still
exist here.
Chinese Fishing Nets/Vasco
da Gama Square
These huge cantilevered fishing nets are the legacy of one of the
first visitors to the Malabar Coast. Erected here between 1350 and
1450 AD by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, these nets are
set up on teak wood and bamboo poles. The best place to watch the
nets being lowered into the sea and catch being brought in is the
Vasco da Gama Square, a narrow promenade that runs along the beach.
The Square is an ideal place to idle, with stalls serving fresh
delicious seafood, tender coconut etc.
Pierce Leslie Bungalow
This charming mansion was the office of Pierce Leslie &
Co., coffee merchants, founded in 1862. A representative of the
Fort Kochi colonial bungalow, this building reflects Portuguese,
Dutch and local influences. Characteristic features are wood panels
that form the roof of the ground floor, arched doorways, carved
doors and sprawling rooms. Waterfront verandahs are an added attraction.
Old Harbor House
This elegant old bungalow built in 1808 is in the possession
of Carrit Moran & Co., renowned tea brokers, who now use it
as their residence. The house was once a boat club.
Koder House
This magnificent building constructed by Samuel S. Koder
of The Cochin Electric Company in 1808 is a supreme example of the
transition from colonial to Indo-European architecture. Features
like verandah seats at the entrance, floor tiles set in a chess
board pattern, red colored brick like facade, carved wood furniture
and a wooden bridge connecting to a separate structure across the
street are all unique to this bungalow.
Delta Study
Once a warehouse, this heritage bungalow built in 1808,
houses a high school today.
St. Francis Church
Built in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan friars, this is India's
oldest European church. This was initially built of timber and later
reconstructed in stone masonry. It was restored in 1779 by the Protestant
Dutch, converted to an Anglican church by the British in 1795 and
is at present governed by the Church of South India. Vasco da Gama
was buried here in 1524 before his remains were moved to Lisbon,
Portugal. The tombstone still remains.
Santa Cruz Basilica
This historic church was built by the Portuguese and elevated
to a Cathedral by Pope Paul IV in 1558. In 1795 it fell into the
hands of the British when they took over Kochi, and was demolished.
About a hundred years later Bishop Dom Gomez Ferreira commissioned
a new building at the same site in 1887. Pope John Paul II proclaimed
the church a Basilica in 1984.
Loafer's Corner/Princess Street
One of the earliest streets to be constructed in Fort Kochi,
Princess Street with its European style residences still retains
its old world charm. The best view of this quaint street can be
had from Loafer's Corner, the traditional meeting place and hangout
of the jovial fun-loving people of the area.
Vasco House
Believed to have been the residence of Vasco da Gama, this
is one of the oldest Portuguese residences in Fort Kochi. Built
in the early sixteenth century, Vasco House sports the typical European
glass paned windows and balcony cum verandahs characteristic of
the times.
VOC Gate
The large wooden gate facing the Parade Ground, with the
monogram (VOC) of the once mighty Dutch East India Company carved
on it, was built in 1740.
Parade Ground
The four-acre Parade Ground was where once the Portuguese,
the Dutch and the British colonists conducted their military parades
and drills. The buildings around the ground housed their defense
establishments. Today, the largest open ground in Fort Kochi, the
Parade Ground is a sports arena.
The United Club
Once upon a time one of the four elite clubs of the British
in Kochi, the United Club today serves two roles - as classroom
for the nearby St. Francis Primary School by day and as card room
for the current members by evening. Until 1907, the building housed
the offices of the Fort Kochi Municipality.
The Bishop's House
Built in 1506 as the residence of the Portuguese Governor,
the Bishop's House stands on a little hillock near the Parade Ground.
The facade of the House is characterized by large Gothic arches,
and has a circular garden path winding up to the main entrance.
The building was acquired by Dom Jos Gomes Ferreira, the 27th Bishop
of the Diocese of Kochi whose jurisdiction extended over Burma,
Malaya and Ceylon, in addition to India.
Fort Immanuel
This bastion of the Portuguese in Kochi was a symbol of
the strategic alliance between the Maharajah of Kochi and the Monarch
of Portugal, after whom it was named. Built in 1503, the fort was
reinforced in 1538. By 1806 the Dutch, and later the British, had
destroyed most of the fort walls and its bastions. Today, remains
of this once imposing structure can be seen along the beach.
The Dutch Cemetery
The tombstones here are the most authentic record of the
hundreds of Europeans who left their homeland on a mission to expand
their colonial empires and changed the course of history of this
land. The cemetery was consecrated in 1724 and is today managed
by the Church of South India.
Thakur House
This graceful building holds within itself a reflection
of the colonial era. The Bungalow was built on the site of the Gelderland
Bastion, one of the seven bastions of the Old Dutch fort. Earlier
known as Kunal or Hill Bungalow, it was home to the managers of
the National Bank of India during the British reign. Today, the
Bungalow belongs to Ram Bahadur Thakur and Company, the renowned
tea-trading firm.
David Hall
Though built around 1695 by the Dutch East India Company,
David Hall gets its name from one of its later occupants, David
Koder, a Jewish businessman. The Hall was originally associated
with Hendrik Adriaan Van Reed Tot Drakestein, renowned Dutch commander
better known for his Hortus Malabaricus, a pioneering compilation
of the flora of the Malabar Coast.
The Cochin Club
The club, with its impressive library and collection of
sporting trophies, is housed in a beautifully landscaped park. In
the early 1900s, when the club had just become operational, admission
was restricted to the British and to men only. Today, though the
club retains its traditional English ambience, its rules are more
liberal and the membership of 250 includes women as well. Strangely
enough, alcohol is not served on the premises.
Bastion Bungalow
Built in the Indo-European style way back in 1667, the Bungalow
gets its name from its location on the site of the Stromberg Bastion
of the old Dutch fort. The building blends beautifully into the
circular structure of the bastion, has a tiled roof and a typical
first floor verandah in wood along its front portion. Though it
has been said that a network of secret tunnels runs beneath the
bungalow, none have been found. Today, the Bungalow is the official
residence of the Sub Collector.
Mattancherry Palace (Dutch
Palace)
(Open 1000 - 1700 hrs. Closed on Fridays) Built by the Portuguese
in 1557 and presented to Raja Veera Kerala Varma of Kochi, the palace
was renovated in 1663 by the Dutch. On display here are beautiful
murals depicting scenes from the epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata,
and some of the Puranic Hindu legends. The palace also houses Dutch
maps of old Kochi, royal palanquins, coronation robes of former
maharajas of Kochi as well as period furniture.
Synagogue
(Open 1000 - 1200 hrs; 1500 -1700 hrs. Closed on Saturdays
and Jewish holidays): Constructed in 1568, this is the oldest synagogue
in the Commonwealth. Destroyed in a shelling during the Portuguese
raid in 1662, it was rebuilt two years later by the Dutch. Known
for mid 18th century hand painted, willow patterned floor tiles
from Canton in China, a clock tower, Hebrew inscriptions on stone
slabs, great scrolls of the Old Testament, ancient scripts on copper
plates etc.
Jew Town
The area around the Synagogue is a center of spice trade
and curio shops.
Cherai Beach
This lovely beach bordering Vypeen Island is ideal for swimming.
Dolphins are occasionally seen here. A typical Kerala village with
paddy fields and coconut groves nearby is an added attraction.
Bolghatty Island
This island is famous for its palace of the same name. The
Bolghatty Palace was built in 1744 by the Dutch and later taken
over by the British. Today it is a hotel run by the Kerala Tourism
Development Corporation, with a small golf course and special honeymoon
cottages.
Willingdon Island
Named after Lord Willingdon, a former British Viceroy of
India, this man-made island is surrounded by beautiful backwaters.
The island is the site of the city's best hotels and trading centers,
the Port Trust and the headquarters of the southern naval command.
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